I first explored Central Europe shortly after the Communist regimes had collapsed. The only pictures I had seen of Poland were images of a grim, grey industrial landscape broadcast during the Solidarity movement. Conditioned by a steady stream of Polish jokes in childhood, I was prepared to endure travel through Poland, not expecting much from the experience. The other countries – Czechoslovakia and Hungary – would provide the cultural and historical firepower.

In every country I witnessed the sad decay brought on by 40+ years of Communist rule, and encountered people who were, in equal measure, worried and excited about the future. Poland and its people were the most vibrant and hopeful. They had been run over by history for most of the last three centuries, and now they were grasping freedom with both hands, determined to make the most of it. I had started out expecting Poland to be my least favorite country in Central Europe, and it ended up being one of my favorite countries in all of Europe.